Remove the stems and seeds from 5 dried ancho, 2 dried pasilla, and 3 guajillo chilis. Coarsely chop 1 medium yellow onion and 3 garlic cloves.

Add 2 cups of the low-sodium chicken broth and bring to a boil over medium heat. Boil for 2 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let steep until the chilis are softened and plump, about 25 minutes.

Trim 1 (2 ½-pound) boneless beef chuck or chuck shoulder roast of any gristle and cut into ½-inch pieces. Season with 1 teaspoon of the kosher salt.

Transfer the chili mixture to a blender and blend until smooth.

Heat 1 tablespoon neutral oil in the now-empty pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add half of the beef in a single layer and sear undisturbed until the bottom of the beef develops a dark brown crust, about 4 minutes. Stir and continue cooking until browned all over, about 4 minutes more.

Transfer to a plate. Repeat searing the remaining beef. Return the first batch of beef to the pot.

Add 1 teaspoon dried oregano, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, and 2 bay leaves. Cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Add the remaining 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth, 2 cups water, and remaining 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Scrape up any browned bits off the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon.

Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium. Simmer uncovered for 1 hour, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer.

Add the chili mixture and simmer until beef is tender and the sauce is thickened and a deep reddish brown, about 45 minutes more.

About 15 minutes before the chile is ready, prepare the toppings and tortillas: Cut 2 medium limes into wedges. Thinly slice 4 radishes. Pick the leaves and tender stems from 10 fresh cilantro sprigs.

Cook rice or warm 12 to 16 small flour tortillas one at a time by holding them directly over a medium flame on a gas stove, or in a skillet over medium heat, flipping occasionally, until charred in spots and pliable.

Stack and wrap in a clean kitchen towel or aluminum foil to keep warm.

Remove the pot from the heat. Taste and season with more kosher salt as needed.

Serve with rice or spoon the chile into the tortillas and top with the radishes, cilantro, and lime juice.